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Our staff answers some common crow hunting questions

BA - Bob Aronsohn |

GK - Gordon Krause |

DM - Dick Mermon |

DW - Doug Wigfield |

DG - Darrell Gibson |

KK - Kenny King |

SW - Skip Woody
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GS - Gerald Stewart |
How many decoys should be used at a setup?
GS - one owl and 6 to 12 crows.
KK - 5 to 8 are plenty. If an owl decoy is being used, be sure the crows are placed above it.
DG - Most decoy setups for a large group of crows is about 12 or so on the ground and 2 or 3 in a tree.
GK - I find that only a few decoys are needed if the distress scenario is being used. For a feeding setup, I use up to 2 dozen decoys.
DW - I would start out with 3 5 decoys to attract attention. If you are in good shooting form that day you should, quickly, add to your spread.
BA - If its an afternoon shoot, it depends how far I am from the roost. If I'm close to it, within a half mile, and its a nice day you know from experience that they are going to move an hour before sundown. Therefore I only use eight to ten tree decoys. Reason being that when your done shooting you have very little time to get your decoys down. If I'm say 3-5 miles out from the roost, I know I have the luxury of using up to twenty in the tree set; and having plenty of time to get them down when I'm done.
DM - Very difficult question to answer. Decoy quantity is up to the individual hunter and the amount of crows that are in the hunting territory. If the birds are worked over too much, they tend to shy from big spreads, but even a half dozen decoys will draw attention. Personally, I like a big spread with two decoys way up high; several in the lower branches off to the side of the blind and the rest spread out in front of the blind leaving a open spot in front of the blind, like we do duck hunting in the bays. This is sort of a "V" shape opening and draws the incoming birds into it as it does with ducks. However, there should be a few decoys in the rear of the blind, if possible, maybe three or four only. |
What is the best time of day to hunt crows?
GK - Unless I can position myself at a return staging area, the morning hunt has always been more productive.
DW - I feel that the a.m. is the best as the birds are rested, hungry and inquisitive. They seem to respond better especially when on a flyway.
GS - Early morning up to 3:00pm.
KK - From around 2:00 in the afternoon until dark.
DG - In our area we have more luck in the morning. On our last hunt over peanuts we took 150+ crows between 7:40am and 11:40 am.
BA - Both times are very good if you are in the right spot. Mornings are much more of a sure thing than afternoons are, as a general rule.
DM - Actually, to me the best time was early afternoon into dusk, but daybreak hunts do pay off also and there are reasons for both. Afternoons the birds a full of spit and vinegar and looking for a fight. They are also well feed and on the way back to a grouping area, or roost. Daybreak shoots cover the searchers and food hunters in definite feeding grounds. Some birds may not respond and fly past, but will return soon as they have foraged. |
What type of shells should I use when crow hunting?
DG- We shoot low brass #6 loaded at about 1300 fps.
GK- If prefer premium #7 1/2's during the early season but go to heavy game load #6's late in the season as the birds have been educated and are flying higher.
DW - I believe #6 shot is the best for all-around shooting. I ve always liked the 12 gauge (the more shot heading toward them the better) but a 20 gauge is easier on the shoulder and on the pocketbook.
GS - #4's or #6's
KK - 1 1/8 ozs of #7 1/2's or 8's, nothing bigger than 1 1/8 ozs of # 6's.
BA - I like using a 20 gauge load of 7/8's of an ounce of magnum number 8 shot.
DM - In the early days of my crow hunting I even used 12-gauge magnum full choke because I could not hit them. Then, when things began to fall into play, I went to a double 12 and this was not enough nor was it truly safe in a blind because of how it was to be reloaded each time. Because of expenses, I went to a 16-gauge (but I don't remember the make) pump and still was not able to do the right job. However, it was the 20-gauge Ithica, Featherweight pump with a full choke that took top honors for quite some time. Although, it did not function fast enough when the birds were on the attack and after several years of use, I believe the choke was now skeet. So, the 20-gauge Remington 1100 took over and won honors with me and several other companion decrowers and it still ranks high on the list.
SW - Use 7 1/2 or 8's in 3 1/4 dram and 1 1/4 or 1 1/8 oz. The 'live pigeon' loads from Winchester (AA) and equivalent from Rem. and Federal are great. The tendency is to use more power than you
need. |
How long does a crow life and how big do they get?
DW - The hatching and fledging period is the most important period. If they can make it past year one in the wild then they will generally make it 3 to 7 more years. A bird bander from Canada reported a bird that was nearly 30 years old. The average crow will weight between 15 to 20 ounces with a wingspan as high as 38 inches. The fish crow is slightly smaller, coming in at about 1 pound. |
Which is best, a hand call or an electronic call?
KK- Electronic callers can, when used properly call crows up to a mile away.
DG - I like hand calls because of the range of calls you can make.
GK - Both have their place, although I find I use the electronic caller more often when simulating a crow fight.
DW - The call that s getting them in is the best one. On a hunt in late February this year they totally ignored the electronic device but flocked to the hand caller. Take both if you can.
GS - That is subjective to the users abilities. Electronics give you duration of play, accuracy, and volume while hands free.
BA - I like the Mallardtone crow calls the best.
DM - Actually, the hand caller is best in my book. Electronic calling systems produce one sound and at time there is an echo produced when in certain terrain. Crows calling never produce echoes no matter where they are and a hand call can be muffled to prevent this occurrence. Furthermore, a hunter should have at least two hand calls available in case the birds get wise and if one call becomes saliva clogged, which will happen during hot and heavy shoots. Electronic callers are GREAT for attracting the crows' attention and the hand caller gets them into gun range. |
Why are crow seasons different in each state?
DW- Federal regulations provide states with the opportunity to set sport-hunting seasons providing they comply with certain restrictions: a) crows shall not be hunted from an aircraft b) the hunting season shall not exceed 124 days in a calendar year. C) hunting shall not be permitted during the peak crow-nesting period within a state this peak varies throughout the U.S. and d) crows may only be taken by firearms, bow and arrow and falconry. |
If I find a roost flight, where is the best place to be to hunt it?
GS- If it is a return route, forget it. Exit routes are most productive in mornings. Return routes will not be very productive.
KK - From the middle to either side and not more than 35 yards off the flight path.
DG - Most people say about a 1/2 mile on the flyway in.
GK - I normally find one of the fingers or spokes coming off the morning flight and hunt it.
DW - It s best not to hunt the roost itself. Some like to hunt their favored stopping off places called staging areas .
BA - Above all else you want your prey down wind from you. The only way you can get away with calling crows up wind from you is on a day where the wind doesn't exceed 10 mph. It is still far better to make your set up where the birds have to make their approach into the wind. Hunting draws, or hedge rows are always a good bet because crows like to use them to stay out of the wind.
DM - NEVER HUNT DIRECTLY IN THE ROOST. Either shoot one of the staging areas, or between the staging area and the roost, but remain at least a half-mile from the roost if in that particular flight path. |
What diseases can a crow carry? How should I handle dead crows?
DW - Crows are not noted for having any one particular disease but have been known to succumb to ones like avian pox, cholera, salmonellosis and granuloma. Like other critters, they have many internal and external parasites. Crows seem to be the main carrier for the West Nile virus, which is known to kill humans, horses and other birds. Gloves, when possible, should be worn when handling any critters especially if there are open cuts on your hands. |
When I hunt, I often get crows that circle or hang out of range, what is the best way to call them in?
GK- While there is no one answer to this question, I often utilize some form of motion in my decoy spread.
DW - Pay attention to your set up and vegetation like trees near your blind. Sometimes trees will alter their flight to your spread.
GS - Use different sounds and decoys. Excited crow call or Come Here call may work. They may "smart" to standard sounds.
KK - Call and guns shy crows often only require a slight movement of the decoys to bring them closer.
DG - Most crows that won't come in are wary for some reason and they may have crows in the flock that have been called. Move slightly if possible.
BA - If your sure the crows are not seeing you and your calling is adequate, I would find another bunch of crows to hunt! Then I'd come back in a few weeks and have another go at them. If they are still wild, some other hunters are getting at them before you.
DM - Call them in with a dead bird. Always maintain at least two or three dead crows within the blind and when birds are not receptive to the hand calling, take a dead bird and toss it out, HIGH UP INTO THE AIR so that the other crows see the tossup. Then begin with a full fighting call, loud at first, then begin toning it down as birds begin to respond.
SW - Assuming your calling is adequate, it is almost certain one of two things are happening and possibly both. One, you are not hidden well enough and/or the birds are seeing movement. Second, these birds have been called before and remember it. If either of these to problems exists, no one could call these crows. Go find another bunch! |
What should I look for when I go to buy a hand call?
DG- Well made, choice of woods, clean, clear sound.
GK - Crow hunters can often be calling for hours. I prefer a call that is not "windy", meaning it doesn't require a lot of air to blow properly.
DW - Like humans, crows have different voice i.e. high pitched, low pitched, pure tone, raspy, etc. Responses to these are different especially in windy conditions. Carry a couple different ones if you can afford it. Make sure the one you buy is durable and the reed does not stick.
GS - One with good volume and raspy tone. One that will not lock up easily to spit.
KK - One that is made of all wood and sounds like both a young and an old crow.
BA - It's not what you look for, its what you listen for when buying a hand call. Remember, a call can look great, but what good is it, if the tone is inadequate!
DM - Buy two or three different sounding hand calls and ones' that can be tuned if need be. Wood bell is the best for better sound. |
How fast does a crow normally fly when coming to my decoys?
DW- Flight speed depends on set up (feeding or fight situation) and surrounding vegetation, in particular, trees. It's average flight speed is 20-30 mph, but when under fire can rapidly increase to nearly 60 mph. |
How many decoys should be on the ground and how many should be placed in a tree, etc?
KK- Crows on the ground are feeding. If you are using a fight tape or call, they have to be in a tree. 5 or 6 will do.
DG - 10 to 12 on the ground and 2 to 3 in a tree.
GK - I usually work on the 4 to 1 rule, meaning 4 on the ground for every one in a tree.
DW - Most should be on the ground in a feeding spread. A few on branches will add realism and can be seen better as the initial attractant decoy.
GS - Several in trees and at least one on the ground.
BA - If it's a morning hunt I'd use no less than 18 decoys on the ground. From two to six in a tree will work just fine.
DM - This too is up to the individual and location. In snow, more decoys are in the trees, but if there is manure on the ground and snow, more goes on the ground. Also, if there is a frost during a daybreak shoot, decoys on the ground will get covered quickly by the frost. However, decoys in the trees above the ten-foot mark seldom get frost coated. Frost covered decoys when the sun hits them produce a wet covering and they shine. Crows feathers do not shine because the birds don't like wet feathers; they try to keep themselves dry as possible. |
How loud should I play my electronic caller?
GS- If crows are visible, start the player at medium volume. If none are in the immediate vicinity, crank it up and reduce it as they approach.
KK - From 1/2 volume to full, depending how close they are to you. The closer they are, the less volume is needed. You can definitely scare them away by calling too loud.
DG - About the same volume as a real group of crows.
GK - Depending on the player, I rarely go past 1/2 volume unless I hear no crows anywhere.
DW - Initially, play it as loud as you have to for the birds to hear it. Once they head your way tone it down to normal crow volume.
BA - I raise and lower the volume until I hit a volume level they like; then I leave it there, period.
DM - If crows are at a distance, the electronic caller is best played loud enough to attract, but as the birds take notice and begin to approach, the machine is toned down and the hand calling begins. The approaching birds will be looking for that "one" particular sounding calling crow and the machine is there just to give the decoys some additional voice.
SW - Use louder setting until you hear a response and then tone it down to mimic the sound level of approaching birds. It is a common mistake to leave the volume too high with birds close in. I really believe it can hurt their ears and they will leave. |
What is the best time to use the Wounded Crow sound?
GK- Can work anytime but I find it works best in the morning when the crows are really hot for a fight.
DW - Not being smart, but use the wounded crow when they respond to it. It is generally used in conjunction with an owl or an injured crow motion decoy.
GS - Anytime.
KK - If the crows are not responding to the fight call they will often come to protect one of their own.
DG - My style of calling is based on distress and attention calls with fighting growls and come back calls mixed in. I use the distress every time.
BA - The Dying Crow will work well, in both the morning and evening.
DM - Use the "Wounded Crow" voice after everything else fails to entice the birds back and they are sitting in the distance. Try it with the thrown dead crow if the fighting call does not work.
SW - Best time is after their initial attack on your position and (hopefully) there are dead/wounded on the ground. Sound of an injured member of the squadron will usually turn them back towards you. Continue to use it unless you hear 'new' birds approaching and then start your routine over. |
How much camouflage is necessary when hunting crows?
DG- Camo everything, even the gear you carry in such as ammo boxes, stools, etc.
GK - You can never have too much camo when hunting crows. Always remember to use a face mask.
DW - Thousands of crows have been shot while no camo was worn but if you want to maximize your success use it totally including your hands, face and gun. The most important factor is to not move until you shoulder your weapon as their eyesight is superb. I ve seen them nearly turn inside out when they detect motion.
GS - Can't use too much of the stuff.
KK- If no blind, full camo. If using a blind, you can get away with just a jacket or long sleeve shirt.
BA - If you don't use a blind I'd be in full camo. If your in a good blind it isn't necessary to be in full camo; it doesn't hurt, but isn't necessary.
DM - Camouflage is extremely important in crow hunting, especially the bare hands and face. This is the body parts that must move in order to see oncoming birds. Body camo should blend with the blind, but it is movement within the concealment that triggers the their rejection. If the blind is snowbound, then white camouflage should be employed.
SW - Lots...get full body camo that matches the area/foliage you are in, face cover is most important (and hands if you can still shoot) and get or use camo on your gun. The greatest camo won't work
unless you restrict your 'movement' when birds are near. Move only take a shot and return to your covered position. |
What is the best material to use for a blind ?
GK- I use natural foliage whenever possible piled on top of a see-thru camo net. The net allows me to see approaching crows without sticking my head out.
DW - Try to match your blind and surroundings.
GS - Leafy camo material.
KK - Sticks, branches, weeds, tall grass, etc. Anything that makes you look like the natural background.
DG - In the pecan groves we use the dead limbs of the pecan trees. Always make your blind from surrounding material.
BA - Natural cover works the best. If your in an area where it's easy to dig, I dig a two foot deep hole for my feet, and sit on the ground level. I then get natural cover such as Tumble Weed, Pig Weed, Russian Thistle or Fire Weed and pull it in around me. Makes a hell of a good blind!
DM - Permanent blinds' can be made from any type camo material, but they should then be covered with the natural vegetation of the surrounding area. Never take the vegetation that is close at hand where the blind is to be erected. Go off to a distant area and gather it, then place it thereon. |
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